Illustrations

I.1    Portrait of Rei Kawakubo 2017 Bernard Weil, Toronto Star Getty Images Editorial Number 502257191

I.2    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Jacket, skirt and shoes, Ballerina Motorbike collection, Spring/Summer 2005 Collection of Takamasa Takahashi Image courtesy National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne © Comme des Garçons Photo by Christian Markel/NGV

1.1    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Holes collection, Autumn/Winter 1982-3 Photograph by Peter Lindbergh Image courtesy Peter Lindbergh Foundation

1.2    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Patchworks and X collection, Spring/Summer 1983 Photograph by Peter Lindbergh Image courtesy Peter Lindbergh Foundation

2.1    Madeleine Vionnet. Silk crêpe romaine pyjamas, c. 1931 Photograph by George Hoyningen-Huene Image courtesy George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives AB

2.2    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Twist, Silk and Jersey collection, Autumn/Winter 1984–5 Photograph by Peter Lindbergh Image Courtesy Peter Lindbergh Foundation

3.1    The characteristics of a luxury fashion flagship store

3.2    Types of third space

3.3    The characteristics of a fashion pop-up store

3.4    Dover Street Market, London Exterior view of shop by night Photo by View Pictures/Universal Images Group via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 144834095

3.5    Dover Street Market, London View of womenswear with Marc Newson chairs in foreground Photo by View Pictures/Universal Images Group via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 144834067

4.1    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Jacket, shirt and skirt, Patchworks and X collection, Spring/Summer 1983 National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Presented through the NGV Foundation by Takamasa Takahashi, 2005; Boots, Patchworks and X collection, Spring/Summer 1983 Collection of Takamasa Takahashi © Comme des Garçons Photo by Christian Markel/NGV

4.2    Comme des Garçons store, Chelsea, New York Image courtesy Daniel ‘Dusty’ Albanese

4.3    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Jumper, bloomers, tights and shoes, MONSTER collection, Autumn/Winter 2014–15 Collection of Takamasa Takahashi Image courtesy National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne © Comme des Garçons Photo by Christian Markel/NGV

5.1    Body Meets Dress – Dress Meets Body in Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between, Costume Institute Press Preview at Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1 May 2017 Photo by Timothy A. Clary/AFP via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 675468432

5.2    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. The Future of the Silhouette collection, Autumn/Winter 2017, Paris Fashion Week, 4 March 2017 Photo by Estrop/Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 648224190

5.3    Tsuguya Inoue, Invitation for Comme des Garçons, Spring/Summer 1998, 1997 From North Atlantic Humpback Whale Catalogue, College of the Atlantic Image courtesy Tsuguya Inoue

5.4    Tsuguya Inoue. Calendar ’90–’99 for Comme des Garçons, 1990 Image courtesy Tsuguya Inoue

5.5    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Top, Body Meets Dress – Dress Meets Body collection, Spring/Summer 1997 National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Purchased NGV Supporters of Fashion and Textiles, 2018; Skirt, Body Meets Dress – Dress Meets Body collection, Spring/Summer 1997 National of Victoria, Melbourne Gift of Takamasa Takahashi through the Australian Cultural Gifts Program, 2015 © Comme des Garçons Photo by Christian Markel/NGV

6.1    Yohji Yamamoto. Women’s Autumn/Winter 2020–1 Ready-to-Wear collection, Paris, 28 February 2020 Photo by François Guillot/AFP via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 1204034583

6.2    Issey Miyake. Women’s Spring/Summer 1995 Ready-to-Wear collection, Paris, 4 November 1994 Photo by Yoshikazu Tsuno/AFP via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 1231730394

7.1    Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Portrait of Madame Henriot, 1882 Oil on canvas, 65 × 54 cm Hamburger Kunsthalle, Wikipedia Commons

7.2    Issey Miyake. Spring collection show, Intrepid Sea, Air and Space Museum, New York, 4 November 1982 Photo by Allan Tannenbaum/Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 1216267529

7.3    Issey Miyake. Ensemble/Pleats Please, c. 1994 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Estate of Jean Stein, 2017 Metropolitan Museum of Art Resource 678425

7.4    Yohji Yamamoto. Paris collection, Spring/Summer 1984, Women’s Runway, 1 October 1983 Image courtesy fashionanthology/Afloimages

8.1    Ballerina Motorbike in Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between, Costume Institute Press Preview at Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1 May 2017 Photo by George Pimentel/Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 675471352

8.2    Vivienne Westwood. Mini-Crini, 1985 Gift of Annie McIntyre, 1999 Image courtesy Kew Historical Society, Melbourne Photograph Robert Baker

8.3    Elisabeth Loise Vigée Le Brun. Marie Antoinette in Chemise Dress, 1783 Oil on canvas, 89.8 × 72 cm Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Hessische Hausstiftung, Kronberg im Taun, Wikipedia Commons

8.4    Rei Kawakubo/Comme Des Garçons. White Drama collection, Spring/Summer 2012, Paris Fashion Week, 1 October 2011 Photo by François Guillot/AFP via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 127769794

9.1    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Not Making Clothing collection, Spring/Summer 2014, Paris Fashion Week, 28 September 2013 Photo by Joel Saget/AFP via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 182123178

9.2    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Not Making Clothing collection, Spring/Summer 2014, Paris Fashion Week, 28 September 2013 Photo by Joel Saget/AFP via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 182120581

9.3    Giacomo Balla. Antineutral/Futurist Suit, 1918 Image courtesy Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art, London

9.4    Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Top, skirt and shoes, Tomorrow’s Black collection, Spring/Summer 2009 National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Gift of Takamasa Takahashi and David Tune, 2020 © Comme des Garçons Photo by Christian Markel/NGV

10.1  Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Blue Witch collection, Spring/Summer 2016, Paris Fashion Week, 3 October 2015 Photo by Miguel Medina/AFP via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 491139106

10.2  Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Ceremony of Separation collection, Autumn/Winter 2015–16, Paris Fashion Week, 7 March 2015 Photo by Bertrand Guay/AFP via Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 465499968

11.1  Cubisme in Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art of the In-Between, Costume Institute Press Preview at Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1 May 2017 Photo by George Pimentel/Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 675588182

11.2  Inside Decoration in Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons: Art of the In-Between, Costume Institute Press Preview at Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1 May 2017 Photo by Jemal Countess/Getty Images Getty Images Editorial Number 675588178

11.3  Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. The Future of the Silhouette collection, Autumn/Winter 2017, Paris Fashion Week, 4 March 2017 Photo by François Guillot/AFP via Getty Images Getty Editorial Number 647874268

12.1  Exhibition map of Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between, The Lila Acheson Wallace Wing, The Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Exhibition Hall, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 4 May to 4 September 2017

12.2  The Model/Multiple section of Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between comprised of skirts from Abstract Excellence, Spring/Summer 2004, The Lila Acheson Wallace Wing, The Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Exhibition Hall, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 4 May to 4 September 2017 Art Resource 678528

12.3  The Self/Other section of Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between showing details of the two subcategories Male/Female (left) and East/West (right), Lila Acheson Wallace Wing, The Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Exhibition Hall, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 4 May to 4 September 2017 Art Resource 678566

12.4  Installation shot of Collecting Comme at the National Gallery of Victoria, 31 October 2019 to 26 July 2020 © Comme des Garçons Photo by Christian Markel/NGV

13.1  Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Cacophony collection, Spring/Summer 2008, Paris Fashion Week, 2 October 2007 Photo by Michelle Leung/WireImage Getty Images Editorial Number 79701656

13.2  Frank Gehry, Santa Monica Place, Los Angeles, 1980 Photograph by Tim Street-Porter Image courtesy Gehry Partners LLP

13.3  Morphosis Studio, Angeli Restaurant, 7274 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, 1984 Photograph by Paul Warchol Image courtesy Morphosis Studio

13.4  Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. Dress, Crush collection, Spring/Summer 2013 National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Gift of Takamasa Takahashi, 2019 © Comme des Garçons Photo by Christian Markel/NGV

13.5  Installation shot of Collecting Comme at the National Gallery of Victoria, 31 October 2019 to 26 July 2020 © Comme des Garçons Photo by Christian Markel/NGV